Port & Stilton is always associated with Christmas, chaps relaxing in the library with oatcakes, a scooper and a bottle or 2 of port while the ladies clear up the Christmas table. Being these days something of a cheese pro I thought I'd share some stories, tips, buying advice and how to enjoy the King of English cheese.
The name: Stilton is a village about 60 miles north of London on the route of the old "Great North Road" from London to Scotland. The village became a big commercial centre as it was the first major coaching stop on the route north. Hotels and coaching inns flourished and the
Bell Inn was one of the most popular. The landlord at the time of this story was a Mr Cooper Thornton and his wifes sister made cheese in Derbyshire, some 40 odd miles away. Being a canny business man he bought her cheese with a family discount and served it to the traveling punters. The cheese was so popular that peeps would buy it to take back to the big smoke and it became known as that "Wonderful cheese from Stilton' even though it has never been made there (actually, it was made there once for a short time but that sort of spoils the story).
The dairies: There are 6 dairies licensed to make Stilton cheese and they are very strictly regulated. All 6 dairies are in Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire. Stilton is mostly known as a blue cheese but they do make a rather insipid white version to which they now add apricots and other dried fruit, something that I don't approve of! The 2 best dairies IMO are Colston Basset & Cropwell Bishop - the names are of the 2 villages in which they are based, just 2 miles away from each other, a little east of Nottingham.
The cheese: Stilton is a pasteurised, un-pressed cows milk cheese, and contrary to popular opinion it is not a "mature" cheese. At about 5 weeks old the white curdy drum shape is punctured by stainless steel needles to allow oxygen to enter the cheese and to work with the added Penicillium Roqueforte to turn the cheese blue from the inside whilst it is still young. It is this action that creates a soft and creamy blue cheese. The cheeses are generally released by the dairies at 8 - 9 weeks old and a good cheese monger should sell it on from between 10 - 16 weeks old. Over 20 weeks and it becomes too dry and should be thrown away or used to make soup. Some unscrupulous cheese shops though don't do this and resort to adding moisture back by pouring Port wine into the cheese. They are basically selling old cheese with cheap port as a luxury product. If you like it, well, you pays your money etc.....
Buying it in Switzerland: Colston Basset used to be sold by Globus but I have noticed that (now they are owned by Migros) they are now selling Websters Stilton at the same price - beware, Websters is not a great cheese, (to put it politely!). Colston Basset can often be found though at smaller cheese shops throughout the country as they have a distributor in Zürich. I import Cropwell Bishop and sell it on-line and at our markets and events (I'll post our Christmas events here later) and am starting to supply it to some other retailers.
The cheese in the counter should look glossy and creamy and pale ivory colour, if it looks dry, cracked or slightly yellow, or the flat cut surface looks concave then it is too old - always buy it young. At Christmas, you can also buy Stilton in ceramic pots which makes a nice prezzy for a cheese lover (just scoop out with a spoon like ice-cream). Prices for a good Stilton over here will be between 50 and 60 chufs a kilo.
Serving the cheese: Always at room temperature (you can leave it in a warm kitchen all day) with sweet oatcakes or digestive biscuits with a glass of port on the side - sweet white wines can also work well. If you are having a party, splash out on a "ring" - the top or bottom 2 inches (about 1.5 - 2 Kg) of the cheese which your guests can scoop out themselves - this will be the centre of attention on any buffet! You can also make a great Stilton & Brocolli soup - I also have a recipe for Stilton ice cream somewhere!
Enjoy your Christmas and your Stlton, any questions, please just ask and I hope to see some cheese shooters in the next few weeks!
It's that "Port & Stilton" time of year. Some tips for Cheese Shooters. 
). There will be plenty of other wines open for tasting too.
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